Most visitors to Dalmatia head straight for the islands, but the Makarska Rivijera on the mainland coast, between Split and Dubrovnik, is home to some of the country’s loveliest stretches of beach.

Makarska lends its name to the Riviera that stretches for 30 kilometres in either direction, one north towards Split, the other south to Dubrovnik. Easily the largest settlement, Makarska is both the ...